The Nerf Stryfe - A Brief History
The
Stryfe is a clip system Nerf Blaster originally released in 2013 as part of the
N-Strike Elite series. It's one of the favorite blasters within the Nerf Mod community, and has had a couple of makeovers since it's original release, with noticeable differences like it's new bright orange chassis and 'nerfed' motors (excuse the pun). [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="480"]
Nerf Stryfe - Before and After the Worker Mod Conversion[/caption] Although Nerf Blasters are essentially toys, they can be so much more when you add some third-party modifications to the mix. In this blog, we'll take a look at some of the modifications now available from RC Geeks,
how to install them, and how it affects the
appearance and performance of the blaster.
What Are Worker Mods and Blasterparts?
Worker Mods is a leading manufacturer of both internal and external components, designed to increase aspects such as firing rate, range, accuracy, and the styling of the blaster. They're ground breaking
3D approach to manufacturing allows them to produce parts and attachments that perfectly align with the original elements of the blasters. In a nutshell, Worker Mods
transform blasters from their original appearances into fierce affinities of favored rifles, such as the
AK47, AR-15 and
M16. In comparison,
German-Engineered Blasterparts are internal components designed to improve the performance of Nerf blasters. They manufacture heavy-load springs to
increase the power of traditional Nerf blasters, and upgraded electronic components for the power-assisted blasters. They also make some handy
holsters and
pouches to assist you on the field of battle. In today's blog, we're going to take a stock
2018 Nerf Stryfe and install
Worker Mod No.153 body conversion kit, and a set of
Blasterparts FlyWheels. [gallery columns="2" link="file" ids="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0263/8469/5395/files/K0009-1.jpg|Upgraded Flywheels from Blasterparts"]
Nerf Stryfe Architecture
After removing pretty much all the screws from the side of the blaster
without the battery, gently remove the chassis and take a moment to appreciate the engineering inside the blaster. It's quite a
simple blaster, which makes it nice and easy for a first-time Nerf Mod. However, most of the stuff inside the blaster is actually there to
reduce it's power. Fear not, by the end of this series of blogs, we'll have restored the blaster back to it's full potential, making the most of some
upgraded motors from Worker.
The Nerf Mod: Internal Modifications
With the screws out and the chassis off, you should have something that looks like this:
The first piece we need to remove is the
nozzle. This gets replaced by the
Worker equivalent, which then allows you to attach the
extended firing tube and
flash hider. At the same time, remove the screws from the flywheel housing and gently pull out the original white flywheels. The replacement
nozzle just slots into place where the original once sat, likewise with the
Blasterparts flywheels: [gallery ids="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0263/8469/5395/files/nozzle-on2.jpg|Worker Attachment"] Screw everything back into place, and that is internal part of the
Nerf mod complete. We'll open it back up
next week and replace the
motors.
When reattaching the
Jam Guard, make sure it clips into place
securely as this can
prevent the blaster from firing after you've finished modding. Take it from us, this is
very annoying. You can
remove this function altogether, we'll show you how to do this as this series continues.
The Nerf Mod: Exterior Styling
Now
reattach the chassis and screw everything back into place. Assemble the
flash-hider attachment, which is simply a case of slotting the pieces together. Once assembled, you can slot the attachment onto the nozzle we
installed earlier. This attachment can easily be removed later without having to disturb the blaster too much, making it handy for those unexpected close-quarter combat situations.
Next, install the attachment below as shown, and secure with the included cylindrical pin. The
Picatinny Rails are just screwed into the place. [gallery columns="2" ids="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0263/8469/5395/files/secure-nozzle2.jpg|"] The smaller Picatinny Rail can't be attached until you've inserted the side attachments, which just slot into the gap as follows: [gallery columns="2" ids="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0263/8469/5395/files/picatinny-attachment2.jpg|Side Picatinny Rail"] At this stage, the Nerf Mod is starting to really take shape. The next piece to install is the
Longer Picatinny Rail, which slots into place over the existing Nerf Rail. An advantage of using a Picatinny Rail instead of the
Nerf Rail is that there is a much wider variety of accessories and attachments available for this type of mount. The
Longer Rail slots on to the blaster from front to back, meaning that you'll need to adjust the flash-hider slightly. You could always install this mount earlier in the mod to avoid this.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
Finally, the
Stock is attached to the back of the blaster, and the
sight installed onto the top
Picatinny Rail. [gallery columns="2" ids="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0263/8469/5395/files/sight.jpg|Mechanical Sight"] The
Worker Nerf Mod No.153 is currently £89.99 and one of the first kits available from RC Geeks. Check back in with us in a few weeks when we'll have more kits and mods available.
The completed Worker Nerf Mod makes a nice addition to RC Geeks' arsenal